Saturday, 18 November 2017

A hill with a view

Panorama - Brancion
Even though our department Saône-et-Loire is not really famous for its viewing points, when one is traveling through the vineyards or along castles, churches etc. there certainly are some places in the vicinity offering stunning views of the surrounding landscape.
To start near home: Brancion is built on a hill which, when the Tour de France visits the area, is part of the Mountains Classification.

Roche de Vergisson (left) and Solutré (right)
The village has been totally restored recently, the medieval castle ruins can be visited and the Romanesque church also merits a visit. The open area in front of the church offers stunning views of the Grosne Valley.
At the other side of the valley one finds Mont-Saint-Vincent, one of the highest point in the department. It also boasts an interesting Romanesque church, a small museum housing a Merovingian sarcophagus and lovely views over the surrounding landscape.

Roche de Solutré
The Roche de Solutré is a well-known place in the Mâconnais (bordering the Beaujolais area). The rocks towers high above its surroundings, and hosted, when he was still alive, the yearly pilgrimage of François Mitterand and his family. The rock is easy to negotiate via a path to the top, has an archaeological museum and lovely views of the Roche de Vergisson (another plateau in the vicinity) and of the vineyards of the Mâconnais.

Panorama with "Le guetteur" (left) - Suin
The Butte de Suin is located not far from Cluny. The hill has a Madonna towering over the surroundings, the plateau offers ample space for picnics, and the Romanesque church on the plateau is certainly worth a visit. The picnic area is guarded by a metal sculpture, "Le guetteur" (the sentry) van Laure Frankinet, keeping guard over the Butte.

Towards twilight - Beaubery
And finally, direction Brionnais, one can visit Beaubery, where a hill houses a monument for the resistance fighters from the surrounding villages who gave their life fighting the Germans. The monument itself consists of a Cross of Lorraine (a symbol adopted by General de Gaulle) flanked by two cannons. This hill also offers stunning views of its surroundings.

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Saturday, 4 November 2017

Steaming up to the Alsace

Every so often, approx. 6 x per year, one can recognise the unmistakable sound of a steam locomotive not so far from where we live. And I am not talking about a small narrow-gauge locomotive, or a shunting locomotive, no, this concerns one of the last great express train locomotives in the series 241P that crossed France until the end of the 60-ies. The train has a power of 4000 hp, and can easily drive at 120 km/h even though the French railways have restricted the speed limit to 100 km/h.

Between Chagny and Beane
The locomotive's home base is Le Creusot (wher she was built as well with the Schneider Company) and makes yearly trips to amongst others Nevers, Aix-les-Bains, Villars-les-Dombes, Lyon and Dijon, the Loire Valley… This year there was a special trip planned. The idea was to travel from Le Creusot to Mulhouse, have a dinner with candle light in the Cité du Train (one of the biggest museums if not the biggest railway museum of Europe), stay in a hotel near the railway station.
The next day there would be a visit to the museum proper and then of course the return trip under steam.

Public in Vesoul
We had watched the train go by standing on a viaduct near Rully, but we had never been on board. Until September.
Because we had something to celebrate we had splashed out financially in order to make the trip with some friends.

A young spectator
The smell of oil, coal and steam, the sound of the cylinders and of the steam whistle, combined with a beautiful late summer's day which allowed us to hang from the windows to take pictures, the stops at various stations on our way to take in water with the help of the local fire brigade, the spectators along the tracks and especially the crowds on the stations of Chagny and Vesoul, all this made the weekend to be an unforgettable one.

Dinner Cité du Train
And not only the trip itself had been perfectly organised (the steam train had to be fit into the SNCF timetable). The lunches we had ordered were of good quality, the dinner in the museum was excellent with local specialities, the hotel was very efficiently organised, the museum which we had visited before was certainly worth another visit, and this is hopefully not the last time we boarded the 241P17.

A sister of our locomotive
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Saturday, 21 October 2017

Grand rassemblement de véhicules agricoles et automobiles d'antan in Lux

Steam in motion
When it comes to steam our area is not very well served, with the exception of the trips with steam locomotive 241P17. In 2007 and 2013 we attended in and around Digoin the Festi'Vapeur event, which appears to be a two-yearly steam venue during the last week in June, of which we had missed the 2015 and 2017 editions.

Steam in motion
Recently we discovered that in Lux (near Chalon-sur-Saône) a second "Grand rassemblement de véhicules agricoles et automobiles d'antan" was organised. In the newspaper we saw that apart from old agricultural vehicules there would also be a number of vintage cars on display, including some old military vehicles and… some working steam engines.

Steam stationary
As I said before, it is not often one can see steam in action, and on a beautiful sunny day we took off for Lux. The emphasis was on agriculture, however, there were also some steam driven vehicles driving around the lake, and there was a nice collection of vintage cars (mainly French, like Simca, Citroën Traction Avant, etc.). Further there were some old Jeeps on the road as well as an armoured amphibian car.

Amphibian vehicule
In a word: this day has been noted down in next year's diary!
For our own website click here.

Saturday, 7 October 2017

Forum des Associations Cluny

Fan form
If, living in this part of France, one wants to take part in leisure activities but does not know where to look, once a year that person is waited on hand and foot. In almost every village of over 4000 inhabitants a yearly event is being organised where each club or organisation has a stand where those interested can get some information about the activities.

Yang 24
In Cluny this is called the Forum des Associations. are you interested in pottery, painting, writing, parachute jumping, aikido, judo, collecting mushrooms, birdwatching, line dancing, donating blood, or just in walking? I would be very surprised if you would not find what you are looking for. That was the way we got in touch with La Spirale d'Or, a club organising and giving lessons in various forms of tai chi.

Fan form
And since we really enjoy what we are doing with this club, we have become quite fanatic members, also taking part in the demonstrations given during the forum to attract new members. We learn, or at least our association teaches amongst others qigong and tai chi (yang and Chen form, with bare hands, stick, sword or sabre). One of the most attractive forms we have learned is the fan form.

Chen 24
The form we are performing has been used during the opening ceremony of the Olympic Games of 2008 in Peking; the various parts of the performance are based on diverse Chinese martial arts (Shaolin, Chen, Yang, Kung fu). And without blinking an eye I dare say that the demonstrations of La Spirale d'Or are a highlight of Cluny's yearly forum.

A complete performance of the fan form (approx. 4 minutes) can be found on this Youtube link.

For our own website click here.

Saturday, 23 September 2017

Café du Centre in Cluny revisited

As I wrote in an earlier blog of the3rd of June, around that time our Saturday's local Café du Centre changed hands.

The big question in those days was when and in what way the Café would be re-opened. At the moment we are a couple of months down the road, and we know a bit more.
The café-restaurant has been re-opened in the meantime, with new staff, and although it looked as if in the first few weeks the amount of customers had diminished, it appears that the new owner has overcome those problems encountered in the introductory period. Again it is wise to reserve a table for our Saturday lunch. And although the menu has not changed since the re-opening (under the previous management the menu changed weekly) it is again a good place for a simple lunch.

Like in the olden days
The service however is not as good as it used to be, but the quality of the steak frites is considerably better ánd cheaper than a few months ago, and that more than makes up for it. A positive sign is that part of the old clientele has returned; we see quite a few familiar faces around the tables. And even though we still miss the previous owner and his personnel we cannot find a good reason to move our loyalty to another place.

For our own website click here.

Saturday, 9 September 2017

Sound and light show

The façade in daylight
Bourg-en-Bresse (Ain, 01) hosted this year for the first time during various evenings in the summer a sound and light show. The most interesting we thought would be the show projected on the façade of the Monastère Royal de Brou, a beautiful Gothic building with a pure white façade decorated with elaborate stone carvings.

Sound and light show
Apart from this show there were two similar ones in the centre of town, on the facades of the Hôtel de Ville and on that of the theatre.
Because the last two were quite far away from the first one, we decided to stick with the Monastery. Another reason to see only one show was, that Bourg is approx. a one and a half hour's drive from our house, and even though we had waited till early September (when the first show takes place at 21h00 instead of 22h00), this outing would keep us occupied for the best part of the evening.

Sound and light show
We left home at 18h45, and arrived in Bourg well in time. And since there is a café-restaurant located right in front of the monastery, we could watch the show comfortably from behind a glass of wine. The only drawback on such occasions is that there are always some people who feel the need to park themselves on top of a low wall just in front of our table.

Sound and light show
Apart from the obligatory projections (flowers in all sort of colours, the various sculpted parts of the façade in different colours), there was also quite a bit of attention paid to those who had the monastery built, mediaeval history in general and to the way a building of this stature was built in the middle ages.

Sound and light show
The show lasted a good 15 minutes, and especially the projection of the construction of the monastery was very well done. And even though we reached home at about 22h45, I was very happy we had made this "long" journey just for this show.

Sound and light show
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Saturday, 26 August 2017

A facelift

Église de la Réconciliation
Taizé has two churches: the big Église de la Réconciliation and the small Église romane Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Both are in use by the international Christian ecumenical monastic order of Taizé. the small however is hardly ever used for services; only around New Year's Eve, when there are hardly any guests in Taizé only a few services are held by the monks.

Église romane Sainte-Marie-Madeleine
Because I am interested in Romanesque architecture I had visited the Sainte-Marie-Madeleine a few times. However, the church had two drawbacks. Even though the church is not really in use it is very often occupied by quite a few Taizé visitors, who feel the need to tun that particular church in a meditation centre. That is also the reason why in the summertime it is virtually impossible to take pictures of the interior without having people in the viewfinder.

Church before the renovation (with flash)
Further the church more resembled a burial chamber than a church. The walls were plastered in a sober dark grey (bordering on black), and the windows are very small and not very transparent. Both factors made it virtually impossible a) to photograph without using a flash, and b) to walk around in the pitch dark without breaking your neck over stools, empty or occupied, left behind by Taizé visitors. All in all, I never felt at ease inside that church.

Church after the renovation (without flash)
When recently I decided to have a look inside the church again, I found a very pleasant surprise. The interior had been completely renovated, there was new furniture and the awful grey had been replaced by a beige colour. In word: the church had been transformed from burial chamber into a church.
And what did the bible say? "And God said, Let there be light: and there was light. And God saw the light, and it was good; and God divided the light from the darkness."
Only why did it take the Taizé Brothers so long to come up with this bright idea?

Church after the renovation (without flash)
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Saturday, 12 August 2017

Les Grandes Heures de Cluny

It has been a year ago since I wrote another blog about Les Grandes Heures de Cluny.This year the programming was different compared to that of previous years.

Quatuor Morphing - Farinier
Then there were six (last year even seven) concerts in the series, but this year was the festival's 50th anniversary and the organisers had decided not to stick with one festival, but to organise a second so called "Off" festival (Les Grandes Minutes de Cluny), consisting of four free concerts. The first festival is financed from subsidies, receipts and sponsor gifts, the second is entirely paid for by the council of Cluny.

Sergei Nakariakov & Maria Meerovitch - Farinier
Since I am not a music critic, I will restrict myself to sketch in course lines what was and still is on offer this year.
The "real" festival is always opened in June, presenting what this season will bring and with a musical accompaniment. This is a free evening, and the music this year was performed by the (saxophone) Quatuor Morphing.

Tsjaikovsky avond - Cloître
At the end of July the first concert was a Tchaikovsky evening (violin concerto and the fourth symphony) by the Briansk Symphony Orchestra with Elsa Grether – violin.
In August there are 5 concerts.
Olivier Charlier - violin, Aurélien Pascal - cello and Olivier Gardon – piano played Schubert, Popper and Beethoven's "Archduke" trio.
Nicholas Angelich – piano played Beethoven's "Waldstein" sonata and two series of variations by Brahms and Haydn.

Aartshertog trio - Farinier
The next concert was a very versatile concert given by the Russian trumpet player Sergei Nakariakov and piano player Maria Meerovitch, with music by a.o. Tchaikovsky, Schubert, Mozart, Schumann and Skriabin.
Still on the program are the Stabat Mater by Pergolesi and a modern version of the Stabat Mater by Lacroux, sung by the female choir Calliope.

Waldstein sonate - Farinier
During the final concert by the Salzburg Chamber Soloists "The four seasons", in the versions of Vivaldi and Piazzola, will be performed.
In the "Off" series we missed out on a concert by a choir, however we fully enjoyed a piano recital by the 16 years old Ilan Zaitmanm and a jazz concert by the Paul lay Trio with singer Isabelle Sörling. Still to come is a Baroque performance by the Odo Ensemble.

Zaitmann - Farinier
In my humble opinion all concerts so far were of extraordinary quality as well as varied, and the same goes for the concerts in the "Off" series.
The programming had one disadvantage. Last week there were three concerts on three consecutive evenings, and on two of those days there was also an "Off" concert. And to be honest, five concerts on three consecutive days is a bit much, however, I also must admit that I would not have wanted to miss any of the concerts.

The Man I Love - Trio Paul Lay - Farinier
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Saturday, 29 July 2017

On to the next concert series

Guitares en Cormatinois 2017
The last three concerts of Guitares en Cormatinois 2017 are over and done with. The first two concerts were not as well attended as we had hoped for; however the last three made up for that.

Rossfelder Guitar Quartet
The number of tickets sold for the concert of the Rossfelder Guitar Quartet was such that again there was no space inside the church for most of the volunteers. Fortunately the four excellent guitar players (Ekaterina Khoreva, Emmaneul Rossfelder, Philippe Mariotti and Pascal Polidori) produced enough volume to be heard by those sitting outside the church. They played many popular classical pieces, arranged for four guitars, such as the Carmen suite by Bizet, Ravel's bolero and Recuerdos de la Alhambra by Tarrega/Sagreras. Click here for the pictures published on internet by our local newspaper.

Serafimova / Dinkova
The fourth concert featured marimba player Vassilena Serafimova and guitar player Stela Dinkova. Serafimova played many contemporary Bulgarian pieces, Dinkova played among others pieces by Bach and Villa-Lobos. Unlike what was written in the program, the ladies chose to play their pieces alternately instead of marimba before the break and guitar after. This certainly made the performance a lot livelier; besides they played several pieces together. Serafimova lived up to her reputation, and gave a sparkling performance. Click here for the pictures published on internet by our local newspaper.

Trio Tzigani
The last concert by Trio Tzigani consisted of Eastern European gipsy music. They played a lot of Hungarian pieces, although they had also arranged some well-known French tunes (such as La bohème – Aznavour) and Russian folk classics (Kalinka, Ochi Chyornye). The three gentleman even got the audience clapping aand singing along with Bécaud's Nathalie. Also this concert resulted in a full church, although fortunately there were some seats available for the volunteers. Click here for the pictures published on internet by our local newspaper.
We have, as usual, already started the preparations for the festival of 2018.

For our own website click here.

Wednesday, 19 July 2017

Staff announcement

I will have to disappoint those who follow this blog and have the idea to come here one day and stay on our campsite:
Since May 1st 2017, at the beginning of our season, we have decided to close the campsite permanently.
The reason is, that having family and friends pitching a tent in our back garden is one thing; however having strangers occupying the same space is something different, reason why we have decided to give our own privacy a slightly higer priority.

Once upon a time
The campsite should have disappeared from our own website as well as from websites we have been advertising on, and even on Google Maps Camping à la Ferme La Tuilerie ceased to exist.

Our gîtes
However, there is some good news as well: we still open our doors for guests of our two gîtes. We are still very happy to welcome those who would like to stay in one of our gîtes for one or more weeks, preferably from Saturday to Saturday.

For our own website click here.

Saturday, 15 July 2017

Two down, three to go

Last weekend the first two concerts in the series "Guitares en Cormatinois" took place in the small Romanesque church of Chazelle.
The program of the first concert was entitled "Brazil Brazil…" and it was performed by singer Aurélie and guitar player Verioca.

Aurélia & Verioca
As the name of the program suggested the repertoire consisted of Brazilian music or of songs based on Brazilian rhythms: hence lots of sambas and bossa novas. Even though I am personally not so keen on this sort of dance music both French ladies provided a very pleasant evening. And this is what our local fake-press had to say about the concert.

Duo Iberia
The theme of the second concert was "Viva España" featuring Duo Iberia, consisiting of the French guitarist Romuald Ballet-Baz and the Georgian singer Mariam Gueguetchkori. The chosen repertoire consisted of pieces by amongst others Purcell, Schubert, Albeniz, Granados and de Falla. It was an excellent concert; voice and guitar matched each other very well and the few pieces for solo guitar were performed impeccably. In one word, this evening was possibly going to be one of the highlights of the series.

The "real"star of the evening
The one who stole everybody's heart however, was not one of the performers, but the three and a half year's old son of the musicians. He sat at the first row, attentively listening to his parents, applauding as enthusiastically as the rest of the audience at the end of each piece. When he was invited by his mother to join them on stage, and he actually managed to sing along with the music they played he was warmly applauded by everyone. As an encore the couple played the famous aria "L'amour est un oiseau rebelle" from Bizet's Carmen, which was greeted with recognition and enthusiasm by the audience. And this is what our local fake-press had to say about the concert.

"Trio" Iberia
Tomorrow will see the performance of the Emmanuel Rossfelder Guitar Quartet. I am very curious to see whether our group of volunteers will have to listen to the concert from outside the church sitting in the cemetery, or whether we will be given places inside the church (e.g. behind the altar)….

For our own website click here.

Saturday, 1 July 2017

Guitares en Cormatinois 2017

As was to be expected, 2017 will see another edition of the festival "Guitares en Cormatinois". This year there are quite a few new faces, however, most of them have earned there spurs elsewhere, and not only on a national level.
Below a short overview, where possible with an indication of what can be expected.
All concerts take place in Chazelle's church, and the entrance fee is € 20 per person per concert. Reservations can be made by telephone (03 85 50 19 06 or 06 88 40 91 73) or we can arrange a reservation for you. Just e-mail ( or phone us (03 85 50 19 55).

The church of Chazelle
Saturday 8 July, 20h00
Aurélie & Verioca (vocals, guitar) with a program based on mainly Brazilian music.

Sunday 9 July, 17h30
Due Iberia (vocals, guitar) with a program of predominantly Spanish classical music. Their repertoire however covers a long time span with also non-Spanish composers, ranging from Purcell to Piazzola.

Rossfelder Guitar Quartet
Sunday 16 July, 17h30
Rossfelder Guitar Quartet (4 classical guitar players). Rossfelder is a well-known guest on our festival, and a crowd puller. They have a varied repertoire of compositions for classical guitar. Those who want to be sure of a seat better make a reservation.

Saturday 22 July, 20h00
Vassilena Serafimova & Stela Dinkova (marimba, guitar). Lat year we had the privilege to hear Serafimova in Cluny accompanied by a piano player. Even if she plays in Chazelle only half as good as she did in Cluny, this promises to be a very interesting concert.

Serafimova in Cluny 2016
Sunday 23 July, 17h30
Trio Tzigani (3 musicians, violin, double bass, guitar and cimbalon) with, as the name suggests music with a gipsy background. However, they do not play Hot Club de France-style music; their music is rooted in the Balkans, albeit with quite some Hungarian music as well.

The concert series 2017
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